|It has been suggested that this item be renamed to Fursuit construction.|
Please check the talk page discussion.
- what types and colours of fur will be used
- the space that the wearer is able to see from (mouth, eyes, neck, etc.)
- whether or not the suit contains padding
- whether or not there will be animated features (wagging tails, "follow me" eyes, etc.)
- any designs, patterns or shading (airbrushing) in the fur itself, and
- whether or not any makeup will be used.
The head is the most detailed feature of a fursuit, and is usually the most complicated because it must easily display what type of animal or creature it is; it also has the task of setting an expressional context for the character, whether it is predominately happy, angry, etc. Several methods exist for creating a fursuit head. The most prominent methods use include:
- strips of plastic canvas are sewn together, and fur and foam is attached to the outside
- a block of foam is carved into the desired shape, and fur is glued to the outside of the foam, and
- fiberglass is molded into the desired shape, and fur is attached to the outside.
- using a balaclava or other sort of ski mask as a base and building around that.
Heads can range anywhere from being extremely simplistic (one colour, a sewn-in smile) to elaborate (a moving jaw, "follow-me eyes" that appear to move, hair, facial markings, etc.) Some characters have closed mouths while others are open. The facial expression of the character can range anywhere from toony to realistic, and from inviting to frightening. Some fursuiters, notably Timduru, own two or more heads to sport a different expression in varying locations and circumstances.
Many heads include discrete openings in the mouth or nose to allow the flow of fresh air. Some suits contain battery-powered cooling fans alongside the openings, either to draw air in or pull hot air out. Sometimes a balaclava or headband is used inside to separate the wearer from the head, to hide the wearer's face and to absorb sweat.
Some fursuiters opt to wear a mask and/or makeup instead of a full head.
The head is usually removed when in the headless lounge, so that the wearer can interact with other fursuiters and consume refreshments (typically large amounts of water). It is not usually removed in public, and it is considered taboo to take a photograph of a fursuiter with their face visible.
Eyes and sight
Depending on the style of the costume, the wearer is able to see through the eyes, nose or mouth of the head; in some cases, the wearer sees through the tear ducts, the neck or a camouflaged space below the eyes — the location of the character's eyeballs and the opening that the wearer sees out of don't necessarily have to be in the same place.
A character's eyes can be made out of plastic globes or bowls (usually cut to size) or taxidermy eyes. The opening for the wearer to see from can be made out of plastic or aluminum mesh, plastic canvas or sheer fabrics such as nylon or chiffon. Some furries prefer to use their own eyes as the character's eyes, as it allows for added expression and makes the character seem more realistic. In these cases, the inside of the fursuit head's face is worn almost directly against the performer's face.
The bodysuit is the full body of the character and includes the arms, legs, neck and tail. Bodysuits range from loose jumpsuits to form-fitting and/or padded costumes. A standard bodysuit pattern from a catalog can be used, and this basic pattern is usually altered to meet any required modifications, including all size and shape concerns. Many fursuit builders use dressmaker forms or DIY duct tape dummies to build their costumes to ensure a snug fit.
Bodysuits also carry a great amount of detail. Most include a simple light patch down the middle of the torso to represent a cartoon-like stomach area. Various suits have detailed patterns added, either by sewing in different coloured/textured fur or by the use of airbrushing (for example, the stripes of a tiger.) Varying lengths of fur can be used, including shorter fur for the stomach.
A character's shape can be reinforced through the use of padding. Simple padding, such as foam inserts, can lightly define or highlight certain areas. Canid suits often employ padding in the legs to create the natural digitigrade shape of the animal. For large or muscled characters, large inserts or a special undersuit known as a muscle suit or bodypod are worn underneath to give the character the needed girth. Some fursuiters portray characters opposite of their natural gender and incorporate the necessary padding into their design.
Most bodysuits include a zipper closure in the back, which is camouflaged by either snaps or velcro concealed under a section of overlapping fur. Several suits have a front closure instead of one in the back. The issue of what to wear under a bodysuit varies from person to person. Some wear a lycra dive skin or unitard. Some wear their street clothes, and some wear nothing at all.
Simple tails can be thought of as a fabric tube, with the ends sewn up. Sometimes, lengths of delrin rod, foam, wire, or plastic pipe are used to give a tail its desired shape. The tail is usually attached to the bodysuit, though in some cases, the tail is attached to a loop of fabric that runs through a belt and the tail protrudes through a hole in the back of the bodysuit.
In the case of larger tails, such as skunk or squirrel tails, fur is usually secured to a large plastic or aluminum support structure, which is in turn attached via a hole in the back of the suit to a harness worn by the performer to take the weight of the tail off of the performer's back; this harness is also worn under the clothing or costume of a partial suit.
Handpaws (or hands) are usually created from two pieces of fabric, traced from the wearer's hand, and sewn together. More complex patterns can also be used, including varying colours and fabrics (fur, felt, etc.) Some fursuit makers add small pawpads to each digit and to the palm to add more realism to the paws; some lightly stuff the pawpads for extra realism. A few fursuits have even been made with slits in the underside of the tips of the digits, allowing for more dexterity without actually removing the paws, while allowing the fursuiter to retain the appearance of full paws. Claws can be made from plastic, leather, resin (most for replica claws such as for bears or birds) and clay. You can also make them, out of sculptor or Fimo. Or you can buy them from www.greyowlcrafts.com/
Feetpaws are the most durable part of the fursuit, as they constantly come in contact with abrasive and dirty surfaces such as concrete and tile flooring and they must put up with a lot of wear and tear and the weight of the performer. Some fursuiters build Feetpaws specific to their character, while some wear regular shoes, oversized cartoon shoes or spats (fabric slips that cover regular shoes.)
Most Feetpaws are made by attaching foam to store-bought shoes or slippers and furring them. Some fursuit makers build the hindpaws from scratch. The solepads, in this case, can be made of leather or rubber. A variant popular among members of the Free paws community — who prefer going barefoot — are Feetpaws that only cover the top of the feet, leaving the wearer's soles bare.
Even more difficult are digitigrade Feetpaws; either simulated, with fake ankle joints made of foam on the back of the legs, or with a structure supporting a digitigrade position (then however, it becomes difficult to put on the fursuit or to wear it for an extended time). Some constructions for hooves use this approach.
Some fursuiters spray their costumes with Febreeze, Endbac, Lysol, or a generic antibacterial spray after each use. Usually fursuiters select a product that will kill bacteria, rather than just mask odors. During storage, the fursuiter may keep it stored with a fabric softener sheet, or a box of baking soda like the ones used in a fridge or freezer.
The fursuit is regularly brushed. Fursuiters usually try to brush the fur in such a way that it doesn't pull on the fur backing, as not to weaken it.
When it comes time to wash the suit, fursuiters consider each part individually. If foam is soaked in water, it may not dry quickly enough and start to grow bacteria or fungus before it does. Airbrushed patterns may fade if washed. Glue used to hold parts of the suit together may weaken if washed. Leather is usually not advisable to soak in water. If the suit has any electronics, those may be damaged by water. If wire or plastic canvas gives part of the suit its shape, it may not be advisable to soak that part, or at least not to machine-wash it.
The parts that will not be washed can usually be wiped with a damp cloth. Stains may be removable with a product like Bubble Gund.
The parts that will be washed can either be machine washed or hand-washed. Usually the fursuit is turned inside-out and zipped up to avoid extra stress to the fur. No heat is used during the process as this can shrivel the fur. For detergent some will use a regular laundry detergent, while some may use a special detergent like Woolite. Putting undiluted detergent directly onto the fur may cause fading, so fursuiters try to avoid this except for treating stains. For machine-washing, the fursuiter chooses one of the more delicate cycles. For hand-washing, the fursuiter tries not to stretch the backing, and not to squeeze the fur into an alignment other than its natural lying flat state.
After the suit is washed, it is then dried. The fursuiter may fluff it up in the dryer in an air-only cycle. No heat is used in any step. Usually the fursuiter does not dry it completely, but takes it out and brushes it periodically until it is completely dry. Since waterlogged fur is heavy, the fursuiter may go to some lengths to lay it out flat while drying, so it doesn't stretch from the extra weight. Fans may be used to accelerate the drying process.
Fursuiters are divided over whether dry cleaning is advisable for fursuits. Since dry-cleaners can choose from many different methods and settings, and there are many types of fur, it is likely that one answer does not apply to all situations.
|Some of this page is derived or split from another article on WikiFur. The original article was at Fursuit. The list of authors can be seen in the page history. Unless otherwise stated, the text of WikiFur is available under both the GNU Free Documentation License and the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 license (CC-BY-SA).|
Construction and components
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